Speedtest results

I'm getting lousy result on second floor - I have one booster in between the main router and here.

Results are : 40 Mbps download and 16Mbps upload.

When I tried going through a wifi booster which in between the main router and here - results are : 13 Mbps download and 11Mbps upload.

When I'm right next to the router I'm getting: 58 Mbps download and 23 Mbps upload. Which is close to what my desktop is getting which isn't wireless. The upload on the desktop is 60+

I'm using this test: http://beta.speedtest.net/

Should I get a router with a better range? I'm using a D-Link one now instead in the one Verizon included. I think Verizon would give me a better router if I upgraded. I think I currently have 25/50 plan which appear to be on par with the results.


How old is your Verizon router?


The Verizon router is older - I'm bypassing it and using a D-Link router - DIR-868L

My main issue is the range.


I did get an improvement in my wifi range with a newer Fios router. That's why I asked.


when I upgraded my speed I bought an Asus router and it rocks. A little weak on the third floor, but that's asking a lot.



Here take a look.

https://maplewood.worldwebs.com/forums/discussion/router-range-extender-etc-where-to-place-what-to-get?page=next&limit=0#discussion-replies-3330582


Thanks! (and testing the link here):

https://maplewood.worldwebs.com/forums/discussion/router-range-extender-etc-where-to-place-what-to-get?page=next&limit=0#discussion-replies-3330582

Ok, I manually linked it - appears to have some characters the autolink doesn't like, 


Most 'classic' WiFi boosters will generally 1/2 your throughput because it has to receive and transmit on the same frequencies, so that sounds about right.

My first question with speed tests is if you're actually having an operational problem, or if you're just doing a speed test and thinking the slow speed test is the problem - which I often find to be the case. Netflix recommends 5mb/s for HD streaming, so 11mb/s shouldn't be notably bad as long as it's a reliable 11mb/s.


@qrysdonnell's point is why I really dislike range extenders. If you get one and you get lucky, it will extend your range but give you slow throughput. It can also slow your throughput down in the area where coverage is good because of all the retransmissions! It can slow throughput down for devices that currently have good connections! If you don't get lucky, it won't improve range, or it will but not much.

The good thing about range extenders is that they're fairly easy to install, because they don't require running cables.

I find that to be a bad reason to prefer range extenders. If good wifi is important, it's worth an investment, and that means running cables.

I ran a cable through my house from the router to a wireless access point (AP). It took some time, but I don't have to do it again, and radio interference will never affect the connection between the AP and the internet. I also installed two APs in a client's home in South Orange recently. Previously, there was virtually no wifi in most of his house, and now the house is saturated.

Look into the Ubiquiti APs. You can connect them with power over ethernet (POE). This sends both the power and the digital signals over the same cable. So if you run the ethernet cable to, say, the ceiling, you can mount the AP there, and you don't have to run a power cable at the same time. It saves a lot of work, and it's much neater, too.

Qrys's other point is what he calls operational problems. I guess he means a slow computer, but it also could include other things.

Another consideration is that these tests yield different results each time, sometimes varying widely from one minute to the next, because there are so many variables. To test wifi in your home, you really want to run a file transfer between your wifi device and a wired device in your home. This eliminates your connection to the internet as part of the equation. If you have a Linux system, you can install speedtest's mini server.

Another variable is local radio interference from other 2.4GHz devices such as your neighbor's wifi. That will vary a lot. Sometimes changing your channel helps, though I prefer to let the router or AP choose a channel automatically. Another thing that can help is using 5GHz which is available on newer devices. That band is less crowded.


By operational problem I mean that he actually noticed. The only thing mentioned was a slow speed test result, which in and of itself isn't necessarily a problem. I find with friends and family people worry way too much about speed tests, and nearly 100% of the time I get asked about them there's no an actual underlying functional problem. People are just wondering why they don't have the number they'd like.

Speed tests are useful, but they're sort of half-voodoo to begin with, so I wouldn't rely on them to tell me if there's a problem. They're quick and easy and handy, but they're not a serious diagnostic tool.


Aha, I understand and agree. It's useful information but only if you understand what you're looking at. There is an impulse to want to get what we're paying for, but we can mislead ourselves into thinking there's a problem if the measurements aren't what we expect.

Jamie, please also look at the ping times. You want them to be low, not high.

I should have mentioned earlier: changing your main AP -- your router -- is a the best thing to try first to improve your wifi. Are you saying you disabled the wifi feature of your verizon router and are using the D-Link as your AP? That's a decent approach, especially if it's a good and new model. If the new verizon router available is better than the D-Link, consider using that instead.

I can't get FIOS yet here in Manhattan because I live in a small building which wouldn't be profitable for them to wire up. We have Spectrum (formerly Time Warner Cable) which seems to have improved, but I'd rather have FIOS.


haven't the foggiest idea about this discussion is about,  it I have been unsuccessful channeling Jamie about this issue;

While typing a comment, the box at the top starts to go nuts if I try to reread my post it is hidden under this box ! If I scroll down the box jumps to the bottom!

 

What's up with that? At this point on this post, I cannot see what I am typing or any grafs above 


FilmCarp said:

when I upgraded my speed      I bought an Asus router and it rocks.
A little weak on the third floor, but that's asking a lot.

jamie said:

The Verizon router is older - I'm bypassing it and
using a D-Link router - DIR-868L
My main issue is the range.

Technotwit at it again:

A few months ago vzn gave us their 'buy or die' choice regarding buy one of their routers.  There was an MOL thread about this.  Someone in the know at that time said that we can use a fios router w/ other systems, but we can't use Other Mfr Equipment with fios disservice.

So how are you guys using D-Link a/o Asus routers w/ your fios?  Aside from purchase of the item what else do we need to have a/o do?



mtierney said:

haven't the foggiest idea about this discussion is about,  it I have been unsuccessful channeling Jamie about this issue;

While typing a comment, the box at the top starts to go nuts if I try to reread my post it is hidden under this box ! If I scroll down the box jumps to the bottom!

 

What's up with that? At this point on this post, I cannot see what I am typing or any grafs above 

I don't get to read every comment - best way of pointing out a bug is through a help center ticket - or using a thread specific to help like this one.  https://maplewood.worldwebs.co...

So I'll bring this issue over there.



Apollo_T said:
Technotwit at it again:

A few months ago vzn gave us their 'buy or die' choice regarding buy one of their routers.  There was an MOL thread about this.  Someone in the know at that time said that we can use a fios router w/ other systems, but we can't use Other Mfr Equipment with fios disservice.

So how are you guys using D-Link a/o Asus routers w/ your fios?  Aside from purchase of the item what else do we need to have a/o do?

When Jamie says bypassing, he means he is bypassing the WIFI feature. The obvious way to do this is to disable the wifi feature of the verizon router and connecting another brand router to use that as the wireless access point. You still need a verizon router. I'm not sure if there is a choice between renting and buying a verizon router. If there is, you do the arithmetic to figure out what's best for you.

The verizon routers are generally pretty good but some are not happy with the way it provides wifi. For some people, the wifi would be OK if the router were in a good place, but often, verizon installs it in the basement, and wifi can't escape the basement because of placement or floor and wall thickness. Therefore, it makes sense to put your wifi access point (WAP) away from the router. The verizon router is a combination appliance which provides several services, ONE of them being wifi.



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